The twilight of Tokyo's legendary fish market
The Tsukiji fish market is probably the rudest place in Japan.
If you've got an image in your mind of cheery fish mongers bowing and wishing you the Japanese equivalent of "top of the morning", forget it.
You get pushed and shoved, told "you're in the way!" At every step you're nearly run down by a three-wheeled electric cart careening through the tiny alleyways.
The message is clear - if you don't work here you're not really welcome.
Nor is Tsukiji any sort of architectural gem. Anyone expecting a Japanese version of Istanbul's Grand Bazaar is going to be disappointed.
Tsukiji is a sprawling collection of corrugated iron sheds put up in the aftermath of the Great Kanto Earthquake. It's old, rundown, dirty and overcrowded.
But you don't come here for architecture. You come for the fish and in this Tsukiji really is like nowhere else.